I live at a fishing lodge.
During the summer, boats are coming and going from our dock. Coolers appear. Fishing rods are everywhere. People get up at hours I would normally consider the middle of the night and head happily out onto the water.
And here's my confession:
I really don't know that much about fishing.
But after living at Argo's Landing, I have learned one thing.
People take fishing in Bamfield very seriously.
Why Do People Come to Bamfield to Fish?
Bamfield sits on the west coast of Vancouver Island, with access to Barkley Sound and the open Pacific beyond.
For fishermen, that's the important part.
Depending on the season, regulations and where they're fishing, anglers come here looking for Chinook and coho salmon, halibut, lingcod, rockfish and other species.
For those of us who aren't fishermen, though, I think there's another part of the attraction that's easy to overlook.
Going fishing here means spending the day on the Pacific Ocean.
You leave the protected waters around Bamfield and head out past islands, rocky shorelines and coastal wilderness.
You may see eagles.
You may see seals or sea lions.
You may encounter whales.
You may watch the fog lift off the water as the morning changes.
And somewhere in the middle of all that, hopefully, you catch a fish.
Salmon Is a Big Part of the Story
If you've spent any time around fishermen in Bamfield, you will hear a lot about salmon.
Chinook—often called springs or kings—and coho are two of the salmon species people fish for in this area.
There is a whole language associated with salmon fishing that you begin to pick up when you live around it.
People talk about where the fish are, what depth they're at, what they're biting, tides, bait, lures and places on the water with names that mean absolutely nothing to you until you've lived here for a while.
Then someone walks up the dock carrying a beautiful salmon and you begin to understand the enthusiasm.
And Then There's Halibut
Halibut fishing is quite different from salmon fishing.
These are bottom fish—and they can get big.
Very big.
There's something slightly astonishing about seeing a halibut come back to the dock if you've never been around them before.
Halibut is also one of the reasons it's important to understand the fishing regulations. There are rules around size, retention and recording catches, and those rules can change.
This isn't something to guess about.
Do You Need Your Own Boat?
No.
In fact, if you've never fished the waters around Bamfield, hiring an experienced local charter guide can be a wonderful way to do it.
A charter takes care of many of the intimidating parts of going fishing somewhere unfamiliar.
The guide knows the local waters.
They know where they're going.
They have the boat and fishing equipment.
And, perhaps most importantly, they understand fishing considerably better than I do.
There are a number of fishing charters operating around Bamfield, but summer is busy. If fishing is an important part of your holiday, book your charter well in advance rather than waiting until you arrive.
And if you're staying with us at Argo's Landing, talk with your charter operator about pickup.
Charter boats can pick guests up right from our dock.
There is something pretty special about waking up, making your coffee, walking downstairs to the dock and having your fishing boat arrive to collect you.
What If You've Never Fished Before?
Then tell your guide.
Don't pretend you know what you're doing.
A good charter guide knows that not everyone stepping onto the boat has been fishing since childhood.
Ask questions.
Learn how the equipment works.
Ask what you're fishing for.
Ask why you're fishing in that particular place.
Ask about the birds and animals you're seeing.
You aren't taking a test.
You're spending a day on the west coast of Vancouver Island and learning something new.
Fishing Here Is Also About the Morning
This is the part I think non-fishermen sometimes miss.
There's something special about Bamfield early in the morning.
The community is quiet.
The water can have that beautiful early-morning stillness.
Boats begin moving through the inlet.
Someone is carrying gear down to the dock.
Coffee is being poured into travel mugs.
And gradually everyone heads out.
Hours later, the boats begin returning and the question inevitably becomes:
“How did you do?”
Sometimes there is a great story.
Sometimes there is a great fish.
And sometimes the story is about the enormous one that somehow got away.
Fishing Is Part of Bamfield's Culture
Fishing isn't simply a tourist activity here.
Bamfield's relationship with the ocean goes back generations. The water has shaped how people have travelled, worked and lived here.
You can see that relationship everywhere.
Look at the docks.
Look at the boats.
Walk the west-side boardwalk.
Watch the activity in the harbour.
Even if you never pick up a fishing rod, you'll understand Bamfield a little better once you understand how important the ocean is to life here.
A Very Important Note About Regulations
This is one area where you should not rely on a blog post—including this one.
Fishing regulations change.
Different species have different seasons, size restrictions and retention limits. Regulations can also differ depending on exactly where you are fishing.
You need the appropriate tidal-water fishing licence, and salmon retention requires a salmon conservation stamp. Certain retained catches must also be recorded.
Before you fish, check the current Fisheries and Oceans Canada regulations for the Bamfield area or make sure your charter operator has explained what applies to your trip.
And What About the Person Who Doesn't Fish?
This might be one of the best things about staying at Argo's Landing.
You don't all have to do the same thing.
Send the fishermen out at dawn.
Then go back to bed.
Make another coffee.
Read your book.
Walk to the beach.
Go hiking.
Sit by the window and watch the inlet.
And when everyone comes back to the dock, listen to the stories.
Maybe they'll even bring dinner.
Maybe That's Fishing in Bamfield
I'm still not going to pretend I'm a fishing expert.
But perhaps I understand the attraction a little better now.
Fishing in Bamfield isn't only about catching a salmon or bringing home a halibut.
It's getting up before everyone else.
It's walking down to the dock with a cup of coffee.
It's heading out through the inlet as Bamfield wakes up behind you.
It's spending hours on the Pacific.
It's watching the weather, the water and the wildlife.
And then it's coming home with a story.
Sometimes you even come home with a fish.